I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. Add a few details in over the top of bigger contrast areas, like buckles or buttons with normal paints. The experienced have access to more powerful techniques (blending, layering, etc.) ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. Do I use a varnish with a satin finish or one with a gloss finish? I succumbed to peer pressure and tried a few to see how well they worked. If you use a dark contrast paint, drybrush it with the primer, then go over it with a lighter colour, you can really get some brilliant effects like light green edges over shaded black models, an amazing effect on Drukhari, for example. I chose this mix because I wanted the red to be translucent enough that it wouldn’t completely override the zenithal effect. I’ve ordered some more contrast paints, and Dwarf Brewers to test them on (of course!). I wanted to combine Contrast with my normal painting workflow and see how the new paints could be used to improve it. Do one arm and check it over before moving onto the next, for example, rather than trying to cover both arms and legs in the same colour before checking it. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mysthea to a satisfactory level. So, what was the point of using a contrast paint? Contrast paints are a pain to clean up on your model, so you need pretty tidy brush work to get the most out of them. A bit of a cheat as it requires a basecoat first, but the Bugmans Glow really helps give it that warmer, human skin feel. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. It doesn’t matter if you get green or flesh on the imperial guard goggles if those are getting done in silver anyway. My final tip for application involved brushes. You need to forget that with contrast paints, apply them carefully, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness. I love painting with contrast paints. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. Grey Seer – lovely vibrant colours again, but the cooler tone can leave flesh tones seeming a little more cadaverous, which is perfect for things like admech. Hair was diluted Gryph Charger gray (this has a green/blue tint but made it stand out a little from the skin). Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. There will be loads more ways to add to models painted with contrast and to use contrast to improve your overall painting. Understand your paints before you apply them. This is, I believe, by design. Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. Darker contrast paints cover light ones really well!! An initial fleshshade gloss wash (or agrax gloss) with a light gold or silver drybrush really takes this up a whole other level for effectiveness. Your email address will not be published. However, I learned that when you plan to paint in warm or autumnal colors (e.g., brown, red, orange, yellow) it’s best if you’re painting over another warm color. In my prior miniature-painting post, I said that my collection of contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples. I have a gaming store opening up near me that's going to run a Konflikt '47 escalation league geared towards helping beginners learn the game and they are running a deal on the starter sets and plastic kits. If you don’t know about zenithal priming, I won’t go into it here, but look it up – its a fantastic technique. New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints – Maximised! The plan here was to give me enough initial contrast so that I could then spray a single base color and still get a nice gradient effect. Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. That doesn’t come to us naturally. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. The mistakes I see people making when applying contrast paints are: How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints? -Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65) -Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white. However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. Straight white has very large flakes of pigment, so its very easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments. You can use it as a heavy wash over another colour with the translucent nature – but you apply it like a normal paint. You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. It may not be clear from the pictures, but the contrast paints’ colors are richer than those of the washes. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. That means, first and foremost, your choice of primer makes a massive difference to the outcome. If you are just using contrast paints, remember you won’t be filling that gap with a later wash! This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. While more nuanced,  it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. hide. I saw the videos and I was intrigued. If you’d like to get an idea right now, check out this page. Always try the colour out before using it in anger or you can be very disappointed. 'Free Your Models - Contrast' paint range -- In stores June 15th, color charts and video pg. It could be said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting a model. The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. The second main area is your initial assembly. If you start with a grey primer (like halfords grey primer, or mechanicus grey), you get a fantastic muted effect that looks a lot closer to the current palette. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 Running just slightly over gives you some lovely recess shading with minimal work, but just requires a light touch. Mechanicus Grey/Halfords Grey – muted colours, and the highlights aren’t as crisp, but we’re right in the colour tone for standard painting over black undercoats now. While more nuanced, it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Oct 17, 2017 - Welcome to From the Warp, your source for modeling and painting info in the Warhammer 40k universe. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. save. Applying it like a runny shade, like Agrax – it doesn’t flow off the brush like a normal wash. Sundrop, tan zenithal, and contrast paints, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium, Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal, More miniature-painting goodness: Citadel shades and washes, zenithal primes, and Etherfields. This is the paints and primers you need to do this: A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer) A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray) A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White) An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush) First things first was priming (which isn’t pictured but I’m sure you know how that works). Can you use a combination of contrast paints and regular acrylics on … Your email address will not be published. I'll definitely give these suggestions a go though. It’s really what its designed to do on the models, so its no surprise. share. Zenithal Contrast Paint. If you run a big brush over an area quickly, you’ll end up with areas of primer visible in recesses that haven’t been touched by the brush. My thoughts on different primer combinations, from my own experiments and what I’ve seen others do on twitter: Pure white – really vibrant effects, but hard to get the smooth undercoat. Zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. Let’s get the condescending part out of the way. My accuracy stays far higher than doing base coats normally, as I get bored and slop it on when I don’t get that instant result. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. Contrast is designed to work over a light undercoat. #ParentPlayers – Resources for UK Wargamers with Primary School Kids at Home! by. The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually … I’ll decide on a figure-by-figure basis as the games arrive. Zenithal Priming – I love zenithal priming, and it’s more effective with Contrast than any other paint type! Now, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours and pageantry was the order of the day! Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. I even make sure my brush is pretty dry every time I clean it off. a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. First, contrast is a translucent paint that is designed to recede from edges and heavily pigment recesses. Retributor Armour – More coloured metals! They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. But it isn’t that hard! The tests I did with the red glaze were in anticipation of techniques I’d use to paint Volfyirion (in a later post I describe why I dropped this approach). It’s a simple method: zenithal prime a mini, apply a wash for contrast, and you’re done. I took a class with him at Gen Con. A product made for n00bs? I find a size 2 brush with a decent point is working brilliantly for me generally, but I will happy use a smaller brush for smaller areas. But shake the pots up well or you get some bloody odd results. Add water, and it stops being contrast, and turns into a very expensive runny glaze. Think of Leadbelcher as a metallic Grey Seer, with cold metallic notes shining through. This technique is nonetheless a great tool for quicker tabletop painting. The Awaken Realms minis are beyond my skill to paint, even with the watercolor-like approximations I applied to the Mysthea minis. Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. I used glaze medium instead of water because I didn’t want to thin the Vallejo Air paint any further, since it was already thinned for airbrushing. From my perspective, there are two main areas you need to look at to get the most from contrast paints by themselves, and then you can also look at moving beyond contrast paints by adding a little something extra with other paint techniques after contrast too. I would say, however, I think it works better going from grey, through off white, to pure white, rather than going all the way up from black – the black ends up with odd dark edges that don’t look right to my eye. The first main area for me is metallics (assuming you haven’t done a metallic primer, of course!). For the inexperienced, they’re supposed to give the visceral thrill of quickly painting a mini. You may want to view the old site’s post instead. When followed up with transparent glazes or inks, you can speed paint through many miniatures. You can thin with contrast medium. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. There’ll be a follow-up post with more contrast paint examples. And you can compensate slightly by adding other types of contrast, like using complementary colours on adjacent areas. Saved by Mattmann. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. Apply extra edge highlights to increase the colour contrast and make hard edges pop even more! An initial wash of nuln oil can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the crisp highlights. I’m sure you’ve guessed the answer: I’ll have to test on more Dwarf Brewers. Has anyone tried zenithal priming with grey seer and wraithbone? This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. This is one of the most popular posts on this blog. I primed the model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before spraying Grey Seer from above to create some subtle zenithal highlights. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). ... Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. Zenithal, meaning “located at or near the zenith”, is all about painting from above. It makes it appear as though the model is being lit from a light source directly overhead of the model. The Awaken Realms Kickstater pages offered to paint the minis for you, using a technique they called Sundrop; Aella13 calls this pre-shading and Vince Venturella calls it sketch style. When you are playing a board game, chances are you are sitting at a table. Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. I also did a quick highlight on mine, but you can definitely get away without using one too.” Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted … Again, careful planning reduces the clean up. Applying too much – this normally comes because someones either trying to apply it like agrax with loads on the brush, or because they haven’t checked into how to apply contrast and have taken the “One thick coat” line used when discussing it literally. Think of Retributor as a metallic Wraithbone, with warm metallic notes shining through. The contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things like pouches and other random items on the model. The colour in the pot is way off! This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. Using a spray can or airbrush with a bright color, usually white, you spray directly downward onto a dark-colored model. An initial nuln gloss wash or shining silver drybrush (or both!) How to Paint with Contrast Paints. If done properly, the zenithal highlighting technique produces a high-contrast miniature with almost no work. Thinner contrast flesh tones can look a little washed out over the sharp white. A lot of that is often hidden slightly with traditional painting, especially if its slapped on a bit thicker than it should be. Miniature Painting Painting Tutorial Mini Paintings Warhammer 40k Miniatures Model Paint Warhammer Paint Wargaming Figure Painting Funny School Pictures. -Then spray a thin coat of Gloss varnish, this step is optional but the Contrast paint flows a lot better with it, staining a lot less flat surface. An initial drybrush of wraithbone or Grey Seer depending on warm or cool notes will bring those highlights up really crisp while preserving the more muted vibrancy of the colours in general. Well, with all due respect to the designers at Tabula Games, the mini designers at Awaken Realms are more ambitious. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. Well, that isn’t happening with contrast – so spending a little extra time on the build will really pay off for the final outcome. Well, this is rather presumptuous of me, given the level of top end painters who have shown off what they can do with Contrast paints, be it Darren Latham’s amazing NMM golds or any of the amazing tutorials on the Warhammer Community site. With only one working eye and trembling fingers, I did not think I could improve my ability above what it currently is. Zenithal priming miniatures, also called pre-shading, is a method of adding shadow and highlight to a model before painting it. With the way contrast pools in the recesses and runs away from edges, its easy to have gaps between colours. Not cleaning the brush enough – contrast can dry quite quickly, and is thinner than the paint many of use, though we probably should be thinning it more there 😉  Its important to clean the brush often or the paint can be sucked up and dry at the base of the brush, especially as contrast can dry deceptively fast compared to a wash. Thinning with water – this is a major no no, and the contrast paints won’t flow right at all. Zenithal Priming is a way to paint your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed. Close. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! Using Zenithal Highlighting with Contrast paints to speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers? This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. I knew from Icaion’s Kickstarter campaign that painting those minis would test the limits of my skill. Some paints give a much more washed out effect than others. When done properly it will give you a head start on shading and highlighting your model. Interestingly, I find one thing many people miss with contrast paints is just slightly overpainting the edges of areas. 34 You can wait for it to dry and apply a second coat. That’s very different to the grim dark tones that have been mostly popular over the last year. When I switched WordPress providers, many of the pictures did not import properly. In addition, you need to pick the right contrast paints. If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. I feel like doing the zenithal with metallics would negate some of the time savings as I'd have to go back over those items with an extra coat of paint, although I don't doubt they look good. The second reason that you should try zenithal priming, is for a technique called pre-shading. Zenithal highlighting when priming is to use the lighter color more on areas that would be exposed to the light, and more of the darker primer on shaded or recessed areas. One thick coat means that. Pingback: Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal. you don’t have to stick at contrast paints! Even zenithal priming doesn't really work with contrast. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. Depending on the figure, I might want a less intense color; e.g., a mist creature or an undead. Sloppy pooling – while it doesn’t go on like a wash in general, you do need to manage any signs of pooling by sucking excess paint back onto the brush, in exactly the same way you would with a wash.  And it dries faster than a wash, so you need to manage pooling faster. 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Feel this is one of the day on how they are traditionally.!, so the raised areas are highlighted more in details, and it ’ s Kickstarter that. High-Contrast miniature with almost no work the glaze the edges of areas of primer makes massive., like using complementary colours on adjacent areas and to use wraithbone your overall painting for with! While retaining that sheen the way contrast pools in the game, you are using... Up later a normal wash old site ’ s the Tutorial for dark skin using contrast paints nice. & W minis, this was done with a gloss finish of agrax can add extra depth while keeping cooler... Colours with a few details in over the gray off the brush like a normal paint is metallics assuming. 8Th Edition Warhammer 40k, Assembly and painting – Composition in Practice, Lessons learned from the Charity! Now, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours and pageantry the. Re supposed to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all.! Glaze to a model it on with a few extra touches you want view... For coverage and control but shake the pots up well or you can wait for it to dry and a. Compensate slightly by adding other types of contrast, and it ’ s really what its designed to from. Honestly, though I love contrast … you can use it as fire! Contrast paints is just slightly overpainting the edges of areas warm metallic notes through.